Since the beginning of the hot weather, many distressing posts about glue malfunctions have circulated on social media. Indeed, rooms often reach temperatures exceeding 30°C (86°F) without air conditioning, with often unpredictable humidity levels.
The recurring question is: "Which is the best glue in these conditions?"
The answer is that there is no perfect glue. No glue on the market suits all lash technicians, which is why there are so many available. As lash technicians, we must adapt. Changing glue presents additional risks because glue that suits one location may not necessarily suit another due to polymerization speed, humidity levels, and temperature. But the most important factor to consider is that cyanoacrylate is very sensitive to temperature and humidity variations. The more humid your room, the faster your glue will dry. Some glues might even dry before you can apply the extension, causing your client to lose their extensions very quickly.
Tips for Glue Management
• Slower Glue: If you have a very fast-setting glue, opt for a slightly slower version of the same brand (for example, switch from 0.5-1 second to 1-2 seconds).
• A Fresh Drop: Change your glue drop more frequently (every 10 to 15 minutes) and use a support like a jade stone that stays cold longer, keeping your drop fresh longer.
• Further Dip: Dip your extension or fan further than usual as the glue retracts while drying.
• Handling and Delivery: If your new glue is delivered to your salon or home, bring your package inside within half an hour of delivery. Never leave your bottle outside when the temperature is above 25°C (77°F). Never leave your bottle in your car or handbag. If the temperature is very hot, ask your supplier to ship it express with an ice pack or, ideally, buy it locally yourself.
*Digital Hygrometer
• Temperature and Humidity: Ensure that your room is maintained at a stable temperature between 18-23°C (64-73°F) and humidity of 40-60%. If your room is always too humid, above 60%, get a dehumidifier. If that doesn’t work, buy 2 or 3 if necessary. In winter, it’s the same principle but the opposite. If the humidity in your room is too low (40% and below), opt for one or more humidifiers. You can also place a damp cotton next to your glue drop or spray a very fine mist of water in the air around you regularly.
How to Improve the Performance of Your Glue
1. Initial Shaking: Shake your adhesive for 30 seconds to 1 minute at the start of the day.
2. Frequency of Change: Change your adhesive drop every 15 minutes (the fresher the adhesive, the better).
3. Repeated Shaking: Shake your adhesive at each new drop.
4. Nozzle Maintenance: Purge the nozzle of your adhesive and clean the tip with a lint-free cloth (never use paper-based materials like tissues or paper towels).
5. Shelf Life: Discard your adhesive bottle after it has been opened for a month (write the opening date on the bottom of the bottle). When it’s hotter, glues may have a shorter shelf life. Some glues last longer than others, but if it seems thicker than usual, elastic, or strings when you dip the extension, throw it away.
6. Proper Storage: Store in an airtight container (with silica beads) away from UV rays and extreme changes in temperature/humidity.
7. Adhesive Choice: Use an adhesive best suited to your environment and application speed preference (a hygrometer is necessary and essential for selecting the appropriate adhesive for your environment and lash speed, it’s impossible to choose the best without it).
8. Ventilation: Use good ventilation in your workspace to avoid the accumulation of glue vapors, which can cause irritation. You may want to buy an EPA air filter if necessary. This is especially helpful if your salon is in a shared space with nail technicians or in a tanning salon. These factors can make your work trickier because of the different products used close to you and variations in air flow, humidity, and temperature.
9. Avoid Prolonged Air Exposure: Do not leave the glue exposed to the air for too long. Replace the cap after each use to prevent premature hardening.
10. Use of Primer: A primer helps improve the glue's adhesion by preparing the natural lashes and removing oily residues. Not all lash primers are the same. We developed our Bulk Lash Primer (Lash Prep) to be compatible with all glues, protect, nourish, and fortify the natural lashes while increasing the adherence and retention of the glue by 200%. It’s a must-have for all lash sets.
11. Glue Drop: Use a small drop of glue and renew it regularly to ensure its effectiveness.
How to Know if Your Client is Losing Extensions or Natural Lashes (Lash Shed VS Lash Retention)
One of the things that always creates anxiety for every lash technician is when a client contacts us to say they have lost a lot of lashes. We start looking for what might have caused this, questioning ourselves, stressing, and worrying. Often, we lack the details to properly investigate. The most important thing to check is whether the client has lost only extensions or the entire natural lash.
To find out, they should take a close-up photo of a fallen extension or fan. If the extension or fan is attached to a natural lash, it’s a good sign for us because it means the issue did not originate from our application.
*Natural lash with a volume lash extension fan still attached to it
But it also means there is still a problem with the client. It’s at this point that we need to educate** them and try to understand why they are losing more natural lashes than usual.
We all know the saying "better safe than sorry." That's why I created a form to be filled out with each new client so you can be aware of any conditions that might affect her eyelash extension application and her expectations.
It is important to fill out the form with her so that you can discuss particular points with her. This way, she can understand how eyelash extensions work and what factors can influence their retention. I have also included a consent section to absolve you of certain responsibilities and to make the client aware of the importance of taking care of her lashes and eyes. At the end, there is a notes section to keep track of the desired and created lash set. This form is a downloadable PDF file that you can print as many times as you like. It is available in English, French, and Spanish. For those who purchase Bulk Lash Shampoo, Bulk Lash Prep, Lash Aftercare Cards, and Lash Shield, you will receive a QR code in the product box, allowing you to download it for free.
*Eyelash extension fans without natural lashes
If, on the contrary, there is no natural lash, then we need to investigate. Here are some leads:
• Some glues polymerize in a few hours, while others, older but still excellent, can take up to 24 hours. Drying and polymerization are different. The same goes for resistance to oil. Some glues are more resistant to oils than others. When in doubt, avoid oils as much as possible.
• Did the client rub their eyes within the first 24 hours?
• Did the client engage in intense exercise and sweat dripped into their eyes within the first 24 hours?
• Did the client use oily products or long-lasting makeup like mascara or eyeliner?
• Does the client wash her lashes daily or at least three times a week?
• Which product does your client use to wash her face and her lashes?*
*All your clients should have a lash shampoo at home. Some lash shampoos are better than others. I have seen lash shampoos containing sulfates that dry the lashes and the skin, leading to irritation and weaker lashes. These kinds of lash cleansers need to be avoided. If you want your client to feel safe and get the best benefits out of a lash shampoo, get SecretsID Bulk Lash Shampoo and save a lot of money by refilling empty bottles. Your clients will be more loyal because they will be able to buy their lash shampoo only from you.
**The best way to educate your clients is by offering them a Lash Aftercare Instruction Card. They will know everything they need to properly maintain their eyelash extensions. The advice provided on the SecretsID eyelash care cards applies to all types of sets and, importantly, to all types of glue, including those that polymerize more slowly. These are the safest recommendations. If you buy our Bulk Lash Shampoo Kit, you will get a Lash Aftercare Card Pack (each pack contains 50 cards) for free in your box.
By following these tips, you can optimize the use of your glue and guarantee high-quality results for your clients, no matter the season.